Another Two Great Questions About Repairing Tubleless Road Tires

Here are a couple questions in regards to my previous post on fixing tubeless road bike tires.

Question #1:

Thanks for this blog. I'm new to road tubeless but liking it so far. I was wondering if you have tried one of the plug type repair kits like the ones from Panaracer and Innovations. They are meant for MTB tires, but I would think they could do for road as well.

Aren't we all new to road tubeless!   I have not had any experience with these plug type products, at least on a bicycle.    I actually carry the automotive version in my car, which is virtually identical.   They are a great solution when you pick up a nail or a staple.   In those cases, I can remove the nail and plug the tire, but the solution is considered temporary until I get the tire patched at a tire dealer.

As for these plug type repair kits, I don't imagine that I will ever use one for my road tubeless bicycle tires.   I just can't see any advantage over the patch type repair kits.   Certainly the kit from Genuine Innovations (pictured above) is clearly not meant for a roadside repair.  If I am going to remove my tire to fix it at home, I am going to patch it, a solution that has worked for me in the past.

Finally, I find that small punctures are taken care of by sealant, and it is only a larger gash that necessitates a patch.   Such a linear gash does not lend itself to a plug type repair, especially on a bald road tire.


Question #2:

Do you always run sealant? Does it affect the ride quality? Do you think it makes roadside repairs more difficult?

Have you tried any kind besides Stan's?

I do always run sealant.   At first, I only ran about an ounce in order to help inflate the tire.  Now, I am convinced that an extra ounce will go a long way towards sealing any punctures. Consider that a very strong testimonial from this committed weight weenie.  Also, be sure to add about an ounce more every 3 months or so.

I have never noticed any affect on ride quality, nor heard of anyone complain about it, so that is definitely not a factor.   As for roadside repairs, using sufficient sealant will eliminate the need for a roadside repair 99% of the time.   I have worn through or am using currently riding on about a dozen tires, and only once was the sealant not able to completely plug a puncture.     In the one case where the sealant didn't completely fix the problem, the tire still held pressure, just not fully.  

Yes, the sealant contaminated the glue on the patch the first time I attempted a roadside repair.   Now that I know better, if I am ever forced to attempt a roadside repair, I will try extra hard to clean the affected area.   More likely, I will insert a tube and temporary cover (like a dollar bill or a Powerbar wrapper) to the hole between the tire and the tube, and work on the repair at home.

Finally, I have yet to try another brand besides Stan's.   I have read reviews on other products, but so far, it doesn't seem like they do any better than Stan's.   Frankly, I wish they were less expensive, especially their shipping costs, but otherwise I am satisfied with the product.  

Thanks for the questions and feel free to keep them coming.

Question About Patching Road Tubeless Tires

A Reader, TimB, has an excellent question in regards to my post about patching road tubeless tires:

Hi Jason,

I've not yet converted to road tubeless, but am running tubeless on my MTB and have had to patch one big cut.

In your review you say "Rough the surface up" but I've seen advice that the inside of tyres should not be sanded, as the threads are much closer to the inner surface and risk being damaged by abrasion. I've seen advice to use specialist tyre cleaning chemicals, as used in auto shops, but in the end I just rubbed the inside clean, put normal superglue in the cut, and applied a normal inner tube patch to the inside. Seems OK so far!

Does the Hutchinson kit come with sandpaper? I'd be interested to know, to work out what to do with future cuts.

That is an great question.   A little research show that indeed, Hutchinson does not recommend roughing the surface of the tire.    Even though Hutchinson's web site's product page for Rep'Air is predictably short on the this information, Universal Cycles web page for Rep'Air has the goods,  "[Rep'Air] Superglue does not require degreasing or roughing the surface which saves the tire casing threads from damage"

That said, I don't see the point.  The purpose of roughing the surface up is to provide greater surface area and better adhesion between the patch and the tire or tube.   After my first attempt to patch a tubeless tire failed due to lack of adhesion, I felt that I needed to do whatever I could to save my $50 tire on the next attempt.

While I did clean the Stan's sealant off with a rag, I didn't use any automotive grade tire cleaner.   I do like that idea however, and I might pick some up for next time.   I think the key here is that the Rep'Air product apparently uses a "superglue" i.e. Cyanoacrylate, rather than the typical rubber cement that is traditionally found in bicycle tube patch kits.   It is conceivable that superglue type adhesives do not require the surface treatment that other glues do.

Realistically, I have a hart time imagining how rubbing sandpaper on the inside of my thick, tubeless tire is going to damage the threads.   When you consider the large gash in my tire that I was repairing, the last thing I was worried about is a little abrasion to the threads, not that any threads or thread damage was visible.

You will find that that there is a lot of new and evolving techniques out there when it comes to the care and maintenance of road tubeless tires.   From uncertainty flows different approaches that might deviate from manufacturer's recommendations.   As in other area's of cycling, you have to go with the technique that works best for you, without compromising safety of course.  For me, roughing the interior surface seemed a natural way to seal the gash and save the tire, regardless of Hutchinson's recommendations.

Tire Review: Hutchinson Intensive

 

Of the three tires currently in the Hutchinson Road Tubeless lineup, the Intensive is probably the least well known.  If I had to guess, I would say it sells the least as well.   The Atom is easily the choice for racers and weight weenies, with the Fusion 3 close behind, while the Hutchinson IntensiveTubeless is marketed as a training tire. 

When I first purchased the Intensive, I intended to use it on my commuter bike, as it was claimed to be the largest and most durable tubeless road tire offered.   In that respect, I was disappointed.   Hutchinson's website claims the Intensive to be 25c in width, while they list the Fusion 3  as 23c in width.    Despite those specifications, my micrometer shows both tires to be identical in width.

Width issues aside, the Intensive offers a thicker, more durable casing, as well as some tread on the sides.   The tread is so thin, and so off the centerline, as to be merely cosmetic.  I simply wouldn't consider the Intensive as capable of any terrain that the Fusion 3 couldn't handle.   

What I do like is that the Intensive is both less expensive and more durable.   I was able to purchase the tires for around $45, as opposed to $50 for the Atoms and Fusion 3.    While I am only able to ride about 2-3,000 miles on Hutchinson's other tires, I am confident the Intensives will last significantly longer.    The rubber compound seems more durable, and it's additional weight is indicative of a thicker tread depth.   

As for it's ride, I find it a bit more harsh than the supple Fusion 3.  This is a tire that wants to be ridden long distances, yet it is sturdy enough to stand up to harsher roads.   In that sense it works for me on my commuter bike, however it fails to provide the comfort normally associated with a actual commuter tire.   That tire just isn't in Hutchinson's or any other manufacturer's tubeless offerings,...yet.

Ultimately, this tire is more about economy and training than commuting comfort.   While it is only a mere 10% less expensive than their more racing oriented road tubeless tires, I feel it will earn it's keep through longevity.  A side effect of it's longevity will be ease of maintenance.   I often wear through a Fusion or Atom tire without having to deflate it for any reason, and I suspect the Intensive will provide almost anyone months of maintenance free duty.  

So until Hutchinson or one of it's competitors will see fit to offer a tubeless tire that is genuinely geared towards commuters, the Hutchinson IntensiveTubeless will be the link between the road and the rim on my rides to and from work for the foreseeable future.   For casual road riders who are less concerned about weight than about durability, longevity, and economy, the Intensive should be your choice as well.

Fixing Tubeless Road Bike Tires With Hutchinson Rep'Air

When I got the link and the mention over at Bike Rumor, they mentioned and linked to their review of the Hutchinson Rep'Air patch kit.    As the world's foremost blogging expert on tubeless road biking, I of course have experience with this product.

The Bike Rumor review was focused on mountain bike tires, but in my experience the product works equally well on the road.    My first cut in a tubeless road bike tire was so close to the end of the tire's life, I chose just to replace it.   This season, I got a cut on an almost brand new Hutchinson Fusion 3 that I had just paid good money for. 

Interestingly, the tire would still hold about 60 pounds.   I could inflate it to greater than that, but it would leak down to 60 fairly quickly.   A roadside attempt to repair the tire failed, likely due to all of the sealant contaminating the glue.    For that reason, despite it's packaging, I would not consider Rep'Air a roadside repair option.   Fortunately, I was able to just finish the ride on 60 pounds and attempted the repair at home.

Repair Techniques 

First, you need to remove your tire and clean the sealant off of the portion you are to repair.  It will come off easily with a rag.   From there, the repair is similar to a tube repair.   Rough the surface up, add glue, and apply the patch.  

Unlike a tube repair, you will be repairing the inside surface, which is concave.  Furthermore, the road bike tire will be much smaller and less flexible than a mountain bike tire.   Also the tire is far less flexible than the tube.    In order to get the patch to stay on, I was able to clamp the patch to the tire.   If you don't own woodworker's clamps, you can just rest a leg of a piece of furniture on top of the patch for a few hours.

The Results

The tire has held air for months just as good as the unpatched one.  While junking a $5 tube rather than repairing it is not a bad option, it simply wasn't going to work for a $50 tire.  Yes, I can see the patch through the cut, as the above picture shows, but otherwise the repair is merely cosmetic.   There is no bulge in the tire, and I cannot feel it when I roll over the repaired portion.   I have been able to ride out the remainder of the tire's life with full performance intact, which is the entire point of the repair.

Welcome Bike Rumor Readers

Welcome to the Go Tubeless blog, I am glad to get the link from Bike Rumor, one of my favorite bike blogs.

Way back when I started this blog (last week) I wrote a welcome/manifesto on why I ride Road Tubeless.    It might be worth a read if this is your first time reading this.

My intention is to be a clearinghouse for Road Tubeless information, tips, and tricks.    If you have a question, problem, or comment, please feel free to post it here, and I will answer it as soon as possible.

Enjoy the blog.

Jason

Troubleshooting Tips: Leaking Rim Seam

While not as devastating as the Gulf Oil spill, watching air and sealing fluid leak out of a rim is frustrating when you are trying to inflate a tubeless tire for the first time.

My first two tubeless rim conversions went fairly smoothly.    The first was a high end Ritchey Protocol wheelset, and the second was a low end wheelset from Performance.   The third, was not so easy.  They were Vuelta XRP cross rims that came on my Motobecane Cycloscross/Commuter bike.

The problem as that the Vuelta rims were pinned, not welded like the Ritchey and Performance wheels.  In the manufacturing process, rims are extruded from aluminum and rolled into hoops.   Then they are either welded together and machined, or just pinned together.  Pinned rims will have a small gap that will let air through, even with some sealant.

How To Seal A Pinned Rim

You will definitely need some sealant.  I use the Stan's sealant, but I there are others out there as well.    You will almost certainly need a compressor.   To seal my rim, I added about 2 ounces of sealant through the valve with a sealant applicator.  Next, I inflated the rim holding the valve side up and the pinned joint down.   While inflating, I shook the rim vigorously.   During the whole time you will have a fine mist of white sealant exiting the rim at the joint, so you probably want to do this outside.   At first I gave up after about thirty seconds without getting the rim to seal.    Later, I just ran the compressor for a good 3-5 minutes while shaking the rim, and it finally sealed.    In fact, if you have lost a lot of sealant in the process, you may wish to add more for flat protection.

I also happen to have a 4 horsepower compressor with an 11 gallon tank, so I am able to continuously pump a lot of through my rims.    I am not sure you could do this kind of tough seal with a smaller compressor.    If your compressor is not up to the task, try visiting an auto repair shop, as they have some serious compressors.

You Only Have To Seal It Once

The good news is that once the rim seals up the first time, it will be much easier the second time.   Once sealed, it held air for weeks, just as good as my other rims.    Even after changing my tires to tubeless cyclocross tires and back to Hutchinson  Intensives, I was able to inflate them with the same ease I expect from my welded rims.

So don't give up when it comes to sealing a pinned rim.   Keep in mind you may have to run air through the rim continuously for a few minutes while shaking and sacrificing some fluid in the process.

Think of the new white spot on your back porch as a badge of honor.

Beginners Guide To Road Tubeless Supplies

Road Tubeless is a new phenomenon, and the vast majority of cyclists really don't have any experience with it, let alone the necessary equipment.   Here is what you need to get started:

Bare Minimum

If your wheelset is not road tubeless compatible, you do not need to buy a new one.   It is very easy to convert your existing wheelset to tubeless.    It is not a big commitment as it will always be possible to run conventional clinchers on a tubeless compatible or converted pair of wheels.

To start off with you will need the following:

2 Tubeless Valves from Stan's  @ $8.00 each

1 Roll of 21mm Rim Tape from Stan's @$11.25

2 Tubeless Tires Such as The Hutchinson Fusion 3, which can be found for as little as $49.99

2 Tubes of Sealant @ $2.95 each

Total Price: $130 plus shipping

So for less than $150 you can make a major upgrade to your road bike

Intermediate Level:

The more you ride, the better off you will be with a pint or even a quart of sealant, as you will need to add sealant every time you repair or replace your tires, or every three or four months as the sealant dries up.

To inject the sealant with minimal leakage, you should get a valve core remover and a tire sealant applicator.

Purchasing these accessories will set you back another $45 -$55 dollars, but it will be cheaper in the long run as you will be buying fluid in bulk and conserving it.

Advanced Level:

Once you are hooked on tubeless, you might as well go all the way and get your own air compressor.  Some people can inflate tubeless tires with their bike pump,while others visit the local gas station or bike shop for a quick shot of air.  Having a compressor ensures that you will always be able to inflate even the most stubborn tubeless tires without having to go to your local bike shop.

Ultimately, no home shop is complete without a compressor.   I used to think a compressor would cost hundreds of dollars, but I have been fortunate to find incredibly inexpensive ones at Harbor Freight Tools.    There you can find a suitable compressor for $60.00 or less if you find a good sale or a coupon (check the last few pages of any magazine with a predominantly male readership).   

The great thing is that your compressor will be useful for all sorts of tasks around the house besides seating  and inflating bicycle tires.   I have already used mine to blow out my lawn sprinkler system for winter, clean dust out of my computer and keyboard, operate an impact wrench to change the wheels on my car, and even to blow up balloons!   In fact, it may be the most fun tool I own.

So for about $300 total you can go all the way.   When you are sitting on the side of the road trying to change a flat, that money seems like a small price to pay to be tube and flat free for a long, long time.