Monday, April 16, 2012

Different Tapes

Hi Jason,

Nice blog, and thanks. I've been a tubeless road rider for a few years now, and honestly, don't understand why it's not more popular.

My question, for you; have you looked at different tapes that can be used for conversions? What is an easy/quick/local source that can be used with confidence?

I have used the Stan's system, with success. My front wheel, a SRAM s30al, had to be dismantled to deal with a spoke and I now need to rebuild it and am looking for an alternative source for the tape. Part of my question is do you know the details on the type of tape is best. I'd guess that Stan's is buying the tape from someone directly.


Thanks for note Gaston! I don't know why tubeless hasn't taken over, but I am doing everything I can to promote it.

I have heard of different tapes and systems out there, but I have only had experience with Stan's. The quality works and the price, while a little high, is not terrible. My first tubeless conversion was with Stan's and I still ride on those wheels all the time. I suppose someone might uncover the source of their tape, or a viable alternative where they save a dollar or two. But until then, I will stay loyal to Stans.

If you have a question or problem with road tubeless tires, let me know, and I will try to answer it the best I can.


  1. The original part number for the Stan's yellow tape is "TESA 4289"

    It's normally sold at a bulk discount for industrial use taping down metal parts when packing up machines -- but even buying just one roll you get 6x as much for the same price

  2. On another subject - wonder if you or any of your Blog followers have tried these tires:


  3. Jason- Looking into Road tubeless, and I while looking through your blog I found lots of good information. However, I was wondering if you had handy a kind of beginner's guide to going tubeless. Also, I ride in NYC, and suffer a lot of punctures do to debris (glass, rocks, even oyster shells) so I was wondering if there were any tires you would recommend for tubeless or if you would suggest not running it at all. Right now, the only tire I have found that does not get regular punctures are the Bontrager Hard Case tires with embedded kevlar though some glass does get through now and then.

    Thanks for any help.


    1. Hi Mike - I'm not Jason, but I have a couple suggestions. For road tubeless there isn't much choice yet. I so wish that there was a 28mm road tubeless tire for commuting, but alas the 25mm Hutchinson Intensive is going to be your best bet. That is a pretty narrow 25mm tire (it's more like most other 23mm tires that I've ridden), but it does have some good casing and is designed to resist punctures, etc. I've been riding them for half a year now w/o any flats, though my conditions do sound milder than yours (oyster shells!?).

      If you are looking at non-tubeless options, you could also try the Panaracer T-Serv tires. I have ridden on those for years now and love 'em. They are lightweight, affordable, wear well (slowly), grip fine, and I've found them to be pretty puncture proof (did have glass go through once or twice). I like the reflective sidewall option for winter riding too.

  4. At one point I once tried substituting 1" Gorilla tape for the 25mm Stan's tape (on MTB tires); when trying to pull the tape tight (to ensure good contact w/ rim, no bubbles, etc.) it just snapped. I love how strong the Stan's tape is and have used that ever since for road, CX, and MTB tubeless. At $11 per wheelset (for road, where you have to double up), it's really not a huge cost investment. I suppose if you are having to cut through to access spokes that might be a different story.

  5. IRC makes 26 inch city tubeless. Another option is to go with cyclocross tubeless models from Hutchinson or Stans. Other than that, the Intensive is the way to go until someone wakes up and decides to produce a good 700c city tubeless tire.

    Either way, I will take tubeless with sealant over tubed any day.

    As for the beginner's guide, read though the blog, it's got everything!

  6. Maybe the start of a new thread. I had overtightened my valve cap. When I took it off to top off my tire pressure it brought the valve core with it. Whoosh, now I have a flat, and sealant leaking out on the driveway. Couldn't get it to seat with floor pump. Had to resort to my emergency spare plug-in pump. It didn't want to seat then, either. When it finally seated I was OK, finished the fill with the floor pump. But by then my time to ride was gone.
    MORAL OF THE STORY: make sure your cores are tighter than your valve caps. Or, run without valve caps (commando?).